BRAIN FOOD- THE SUMMER SHACK COOKBOOK BY JASPER WHITE

Story by Victoria Ruvolo
Photos courtesy of The Summer Shack Cookbook

As summer officially comes to a close, the longing to resurrect the essence
of the season begins to creep back into our daily lives. For those of us who
try to bring it back year-round, Jasper White’s The Summer Shack: The
Complete Guide to Summer Food
serves as our official guidebook.

We have all, at one point or another, savored the taste of deliciously fresh
shore food and loved it; whether it’s a basket of fried clams, a handful of
steamed crab claws, or a glistening lobster roll, there’s something deeply
satisfying about eating food that was probably caught, cooked, and served
within a few miles of where you’re feasting on it. White’s cookbook about
his restaurant, Summer Shack, just came out in paperback and it is devoted
to the art of seafood. In reality though, this book is much more than a
typical restaurant overview – it’s a love letter to all things fresh, local,
and pure.

White sets the tone by immediately making it clear that the recipes included
are nearly all his own personal recipes; meaning a lot of love and care went
into the book’s production. When asked for his thoughts on the publication
he replies, “I’m delighted to see the Summer Shack Cookbook released in
paperback. The lobster roll says it all – this is my Joy of Cooking for
the beach.” And when he says “Joy of Cooking”, he means it. White leaves no
fish, bivalve, or cephalopod untouched in this comprehensive yet
straightforward shore-style seafood bible. The reader is taken thru the
basics and beyond from how to gather mollusks, to shucking the perfect
oyster, to a large chart depicting various seafood steaming times. There’s
even a 101 on what the reader needs to create the “shore kitchen” atmosphere
at home. Truly nothing is missing.

Even a seasoned poissonier will find great new insider tips among the
fundamentals, as well as a plethora of pure, innovative recipes. Most of us
have grilled swordfish before but have you ever grilled fresh sardines or
fried smelts? Summer Shack makes the process effortless. Tired of the same
old mussel recipes? Try the Chilled Mussels with Curry Mayo; simply prepared
this is a dish that can easily be transformed from a canapé to a main
course. And for the private chef looking for a few versatile recipes that
work for both meat and fish lovers, there’s a lovely roasted garlic and
mustard glaze recipe; perfect for either mackerel, shrimp, OR pork chops.

White has written a glorious homage to his first love: shore-style food. Not
only does The Summer Shack Cookbook give great everyday fish tips; it’s a
wonderful source of inspiration for any chef yearning to bring their fondest
childhood culinary memories to food lovers everywhere.

PPX – CHEF CHRIS JAECKLE

Rolling out of Ai Fiori to ride for MS research and relief

You cook and make drinks to please those who enter your bar or restaurant. But what are you doing to help out the rest of the world, like those afflicted with Multiple Sclerosis and other diseases that make sometimes the simplest of life’s pleasures impossible to enjoy?

While you can’t feed them all you can put your money where your mouth is and contribute to a worthy cause. Even if it means letting someone else (in this case Chris Jaeckle) do the heavy lifting.

Jaeckle steps out of the Ai Fiori (www.aifiorinyc.com) kitchen to share his thoughts on getting involved with this annual charity bike ride that takes place this year on October 2nd. He says, “I have participated in this ride several times. My best friend’s mother has been living with MS for years, and it has been my way of showing support for him and his family. I am hoping to raise more than I have in the past, to continue to contribute as well as express the strength of our friendship. I am doing the 100. Anything helps.”

Jaeckle set a goal of raising $500 dollars and is well over that mark; almost double. While it’s not necessary to hop on a bike and ride alongside him, why not share in his effort and contribute? Just a little?

Give:main.nationalmssociety.org/site/TR/Bike/NYNBikeEvents?px=9987692&pg=personal&fr_id=16987

DON’T MISS– FEVER-TREE

If you’ve kept up with INSIDE F&B’s editorial, or run around the country eating and drinking with us at all, you’ve already heard us praise this brand over and over again. While we know that we know what we’re talking about it’s always nice to have another respected opinion publicly making the same claim.

So, now it’s not just the editors of INSIDE F&B singing this premium mixers’ praises; the industry has spoken. At the 2011 Fancy Food Show in Washington, DC this past July (www.specialtyfood.com) the silver SOFI Award (SOFI =Specialty Outstanding Food Innovation)went to Fever-Tree (www.fever-tree.com) for its exquisite line of products which includes: Ginger Beer, Ginger Ale, Tonic, Naturally Light Tonic, Club Soda, and Bitter Lemon. Tim Warrillow, co-founder, comments, “Fever-Tree believes in enhancing your favorite spirit, rather than drown out the flavor like other mixers. That’s why we use all natural ingredients, including unique gingers and other botanicals. We’re proud that the products contain no artificial colors, sweeteners, flavorings or preservatives.”

This is the second year in a row that the brand’s co-founder is pleased to announce that Fever Tree has garnered such well deserved recognition. At the 2010 show their Ginger Beer won the gold award for best cold beverage. This year, their Ginger Ale took the category’s top prize.

With undisputed wins like this you might want to consider getting rid of that soda gun, and making room in your reach in for some Fever-Tree bottles.

ROCKS STARS – TALES OF THE COCKTAIL 2011

A Few Of My Favorite Things
By David Ransom

Photo by Charles Steadman

Once again this past July in New Orleans, Mrs. And Mr. Cocktail (aka Ann & Paul Tuennerman) put on what those of us in the business have affectionately come to consider the triathlon of liver survival (drink-filled seminars, drink-filled tasting rooms, and drink-filled dinners and parties… not to mention the obligatory night-ending swing through Old Absinthe House on Rue Bourbon every night just to prove you didn’t expire during the course of the day) that is Tales of the Cocktail (www.talesofthecocktail.com).

Having just completed its ninth year, Tales has grown from a tiny industry-focused event that brought the nation’s top bartenders together for a few days of camaraderie, events, and parties, into a truly international symposium, complete with a “Spirited Awards” program (like the movie industry’s Oscars) that hands out honors to establishments and industry leaders from around the world, and now brings in professionals and consumers from all over the globe to celebrate the world of cocktails in the city that created them.

Rocks Stars and I feel honored to be given the chance to attend each year, and as always, I’m thrilled to be able to share some of my experiences…now that I have recovered enough to be able to write again…

So without further ado, here are a few of my favorite things from this year’s Tales, both good and bad, but really all good, as nothing that includes having a well-crafted drink could ever really be bad… and in no particular order:

Best Hosts Under Pressure: Ann & Paul Tuennerman. Nine years into it, Tales could probably have run itself, but Ann and Paul were everywhere. Every event. Every day. Every night. What amazes me about this is that Paul was recovering from a health scare and had just spent time in the hospital. I have to tip my hat to these two intrepid souls for not staying in the background and recuperating at home while “their baby” was staged. Quite to the contrary, they were all over the place from Tuesday’s Media Welcome Party at Arnaud’s French 75 bar (beautifully run by Chris Hannah, one of NOLA’s finest drinks-smiths – www.arnaudsrestaurant.com),to the final Sunday Brunch with Mr. & Mrs. Cocktail, and everywhere in between. I even ran into Paul solo, visibly tired yet surely on the mend, at the Suntory Suite (www.suntory.com) one afternoon where we chatted on the balcony overlooking Bourbon Street while enjoying a glass of Japan’s finest single malt. Read the full article here »

PPX – CHEF KELVIN FERNANDEZ

CHOPPED: August 9th appointment television not to be missed
By Francine Cohen

Just because you didn’t get a reservation for Chef Kelvin Fernandez’s Chopped Tasting Menu and Viewing Party tomorrow night but that doesn’t mean you can’t join in the fun and see this culinary whiz in action.

Vicariously…Catch him on The Food Network’s Chopped tomorrow night, August 9th, at 10:00 p.m. ET/PT. Or set your DVR; this is a competition you’re not going to want to miss. (www.foodnetwork.com/chopped/my-way)

Within arm’s reach…get yourself to The Strand American Bistro at the Strand Hotel (www.thestrandnyc.com) and check out the on-the-plate moves of this young chef who started out his career at the age of 15 and, in roughly a decade has worked his way up to become an Executive Chef.

From his enrollment in a culinary class in Long Island City High school and then landing his first job working under Michelin star Chef Georges Masraff at the Waters Edge restaurant in Queens, New York, Fernandez has always been compelled to excel in the kitchen.

His dedication at school, and in Masraff’s restaurant, led him to get involved with C-CAP (Careers through Culinary Arts Program – a not-for-profit organization that promotes and provides foodserve career opportunities for disadvantaged youth through culinary arts education and employment. (www.ccapinc.org) and that involvement resulted in a $40,000 Scholarship to the Culinary Institute of America.

His CIA training provided a strong foundation that enabled him to succeed in such notable New York City kitchens as Aquavit (www.aquavit.org), Town, Gotham Bar and Grill (www.gothambarandgrill.com) and Café des Artistes. Fernandez notes, “Working under great chefs like Marcus Samulesson and Alfred Portale enabled me to develop the skills I needed to land a job as Executive Sous Chef at Café des Artistes at the young age of 21.”

Youthful passion breeds hard work and commitment for this chef who recently landed the role of Executive Chef. Fernandez says, “I’m excited to truly put my passion to work to create a great dining experience for each and everyone of our guest. And, I always will continue to find time to do charity events, cooking demos at my old high school, and encourage students how important education is.”

Delivering that education message may be just a little easier for this chef who recently presented a cooking demo at Macy’s (www.macys.com) and now will be seen by Food Network’s millions of viewers; even if he is chopped (we can’t reveal the outcome) the Chopped platform and exposure to input from host Ted Allen (www.tedallen.net) and the judges is invaluable.

Fernandez concludes, “Being on Chopped means letting the world see my passion for cooking and how dedicated and motivated I am to making all my dreams come true. I started here as Chef de Cuisine, and Now I’m the Executive Chef at the Strand.”

EAT HERE NOW – KANSAS CITY

By Seánan Forbes

Photo courtesy of the Kansas City Convention and Visitors Association

Kansas City’s not just about barbecue. There are restaurants, bars and coffee shops that would be mobbed were they in LA or New York, but the owners are happy in the Heartland. If you’re into coffee, then share in KC’s celebration of its independent roasters: The Roasterie (www.theroasterie.com) and Broadway Café and Roasting (www.broadwaycafeandroastery.com). Visit at the right hour, and you can catch one of Kansas City’s chefs fuelling up for another successful day.

Three-time Beard nominee Colby Garrelts and his wife, Megan, are an unstoppable pair: as parents, chefs (Colby handles the savory side; Megan, the sweet), and co-owners of Bluestem (www.bluestemkc.com, 900 Westport Road). They’re looking into opening a new restaurant, and are working on a cookbook – and their crew gets along so well that they hang out together when they have time off.

Photo by Bonjwing Lee

Where would they have you go in KC? In the great tradition of “eat dessert first,” let’s give Megan Garrelts the first word. “We go to Room 39 a lot,” she says. “It’s homey. It’s small . . . They have a great burger, great specials and soups . . . Ted [Ted Habinger, chef-restaurateur] is a great friend of ours.” Habinger’s worked for some of the best, including Danny Meyer. Room 39 is the ultimate in egalitarian treatment. Whether you spend hours drinking excellent cappuccinos and reading the newspaper, or order a five-course meal and a $200 bottle of wine, you’ll be shown honest grace and courtesy. Habinger wouldn’t have it any other way.

R Bar (www.rbarkc.com, 1617 Genessee Street) is another of her favorites. There’s “a great cocktail selection.” Just as important, “The ambience is just really cool. It has that old Kansas City feel. It takes you back in time.” Check the calendar for live music. R Bar’s drinks pair well with jazz.

Laughing, Colby Garrelts says, “The boys and I eat out almost every single day. We go hit the holes in the wall with the good lunches. These are the places that are the heart and soul of what we eat on a normal basis. We eat tons of pho.”   For that, they go to The Vietnam Café. (522 Campbell Street) and Kim Long Asian Market and Restaurant (511 Cherry Street) “It’s where the Vietnamese people go to eat, both of these places.” Look for “noodles, vermicelli, tripe – which isn’t really tripe – tendon, shank . . .” Garrelts’ one-word review: “Fantastic.

El Camino Real (902 N 7th Street, Kansas City KS). “They serve real gorditas – they hand-make all the gorditas – and they have those big pork shoulders with pineapple that drip and roast in the rotisserie. This is the real deal.”

El Pollo Rey (1101 Kansas Avenue, Kansas City KS) “All these people do is grill chickens.” You can buy a whole or half-chicken. You get fresh, warm tortillas, pickled vegetables, Mexican sodas – and it’s just spectacular.” Read the full article here »

ROCKS STARS SOUTH (TALES OF THE COCKTAIL 2011) – ROB MONTGOMERY

Five Questions for Rob Montgomery of The Miller Tavern in Toronto, Ontario

Q1. How many years have you been coming to Tales of the Cocktail?
A. This is my first time

Q2. Do you wear an armband when tending bar?
A. (laughs) No, I’m not a member of the Hitler Youth…

Q3. As a 20-year veteran of this industry, what advice do you have for someone who’s just starting out in the business?
A. SHUT UP AND LISTEN! Learn… lather, rinse, repeat…

Q4. What’s your Go-to spirit these days?
A. Gin and Tequila, for sure. As a bartender, I’m pretty sick of making vodka drinks.

Q5. Do you have a favorite garnish?
A. A beautiful woman…

Couldn’t think of a better one myself! Enjoy Tales…

ROCKS STARS SOUTH (TALES OF THE COCKTAIL 2011) – DARRYL ROBINSON

Five Questions for Dr. Mixologist Darryl Robinson, Host of Drink Up on The Cooking Channel.

Q1. How many years have you been coming to Tales of the Cocktail?
A. Five

Q2. Do you wear an armband on your show?
A. No

Q3. Do you have a favorite ingredient?
A. Agave Nectar

Q4. As a veteran of this industry, what advice do you have for someone who’s just starting out in the business?
A. Pick someone you admire in the industry, study them, and then do better

Q5. What’s your Go-to spirit these days?
A. Liqueurs, like St. Germain, etc. They are able to help create such interesting cocktails

Agreed. Enjoy Tales…