Posts Tagged ‘Commander’s Palace’

FLAVOR FULL

Wednesday, August 28th, 2013

Exploring Differences Between Macerations And Infusions
By LeNell Camacho Santa Ana
Photo courtesy of Charles Steadman

Charles Steadman Strawberries sous vide machine

Head scratching and head spinning often results when the question arises about the difference between maceration and infusion. Chefs and bar pros often give different answers. Pull out good ole Merriam-Webster and the head scratching continues. Maceration is defined as “to cause to become soft or separated into constituent elements by or as if by steeping in fluid; broadly: steep, soak.” Merriam-Webster tells us that the verb infuse means “to steep in liquid (as water) without boiling so as to extract the soluble constituents or principles.” Are we clear, yet?

Posing the question to Executive Chef Jeffery Hansell helped clarify. Chef Hansell’s recently taken the helm at Birmingham’s Veranda on Highland restaurant (www.verandaonhighland.com). His background includes NOLA’s Commander’s Palace (www.commanderspalace.com) and Lüke (www.lukeneworleans.com). He also worked under chefs Ryan Hardy and Robert McCormick at Montagna at the Aspen, Colorado luxury ski resort Little Nell. He admitted that even chefs don’t have a crystal clear delineation between maceration and infusion.

In his mind, maceration often involves fruit in a decomposition process usually in its own juice, such as the crushing of grapes in the fermentation of wine. He always thinks of infusion as flavoring oil, alcohol, or other liquid with herbs, spices, fruit, or various other products. “I start with an infusion every day…in a French press,” he joked.

All joking aside, some argue that maceration is simply cold infusion or subtle heat infusion and perhaps more time-consuming. Some alcohol control boards argue that maceration involves alcohol instead of water in the making of cordials and liqueurs.

Basically, maceration involves soaking food in liquid to infuse flavor. An infusion is a very simple chemical process when botanicals release their active ingredients easily in some sort of liquid like water, oil or alcohol and may or may not involve some sort of heat. The botanicals are typically dried herbs, flowers, fruit or vegetables.

Still confused?

When we stuff strawberries into a bottle of tequila, we infuse the tequila with strawberry flavor. The softened fruit macerates. In making a mojito, we muddle mint in a rum drink. The rum is infused by the mint. The mint is macerated.

Got it?

EAT HERE NOW – NEW ORLEANS 2013

Tuesday, July 23rd, 2013

Do you know what it means to miss New Orleans?
By Abigail Gullo

Tales Walk 2013 Iron Man on N. Peters statue

“Baby please don’t go. Baby please don’t go. Baby please don’t go down to New Orleans, you know I love you so baby please don’t go.” – Big Joe Williams….and Muddy Waters and John Lee Hooker and Van Morrison and AC/DC and Aerosmith…..

I know you all long for New Orleans as you plan your annual summer trip down here and well after you leave. This city has a magical pull that brought many into its orbit. And you truly miss that good feeling when you are gone. But, this isn’t all I’m talking about; I am talking about missing New Orleans, the real New Orleans. While you are here you don’t want to miss the real New Orleans and the things that make it great.

I fell in love with this city during Tales of the Cocktails. Every year I came earlier and stayed longer. My boss and mentor, St John Frizell at Fort Defiance in Red Hook, Brooklyn went to college here and lived here until 1999. He said that New Orleans had a special magic and a real appreciation for hospitality and service. St John encouraged me when he said he saw that special light in me too and knew I would do well here. When an opportunity came up to work with the Brennan family, who has been running the best restaurants in New Orleans for over 100 years, I thought the signs were all pointing me leaving New York for New Orleans.

Tales 2013 Jackson Square with card reader
Brennan
So finally last year I just could not live without New Orleans any longer and I left the Big Apple for the Big Easy. There is lesson number one. There are many things not easy about living here. There is heat, hurricanes, violence, crumbling infrastructure and judging from the caterpillar sting I have on my

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