Posts Tagged ‘LeNell Camacho Santa Ana’

FLAVOR FULL

Wednesday, August 28th, 2013

Exploring Differences Between Macerations And Infusions
By LeNell Camacho Santa Ana
Photo courtesy of Charles Steadman

Charles Steadman Strawberries sous vide machine

Head scratching and head spinning often results when the question arises about the difference between maceration and infusion. Chefs and bar pros often give different answers. Pull out good ole Merriam-Webster and the head scratching continues. Maceration is defined as “to cause to become soft or separated into constituent elements by or as if by steeping in fluid; broadly: steep, soak.” Merriam-Webster tells us that the verb infuse means “to steep in liquid (as water) without boiling so as to extract the soluble constituents or principles.” Are we clear, yet?

Posing the question to Executive Chef Jeffery Hansell helped clarify. Chef Hansell’s recently taken the helm at Birmingham’s Veranda on Highland restaurant (www.verandaonhighland.com). His background includes NOLA’s Commander’s Palace (www.commanderspalace.com) and Lüke (www.lukeneworleans.com). He also worked under chefs Ryan Hardy and Robert McCormick at Montagna at the Aspen, Colorado luxury ski resort Little Nell. He admitted that even chefs don’t have a crystal clear delineation between maceration and infusion.

In his mind, maceration often involves fruit in a decomposition process usually in its own juice, such as the crushing of grapes in the fermentation of wine. He always thinks of infusion as flavoring oil, alcohol, or other liquid with herbs, spices, fruit, or various other products. “I start with an infusion every day…in a French press,” he joked.

All joking aside, some argue that maceration is simply cold infusion or subtle heat infusion and perhaps more time-consuming. Some alcohol control boards argue that maceration involves alcohol instead of water in the making of cordials and liqueurs.

Basically, maceration involves soaking food in liquid to infuse flavor. An infusion is a very simple chemical process when botanicals release their active ingredients easily in some sort of liquid like water, oil or alcohol and may or may not involve some sort of heat. The botanicals are typically dried herbs, flowers, fruit or vegetables.

Still confused?

When we stuff strawberries into a bottle of tequila, we infuse the tequila with strawberry flavor. The softened fruit macerates. In making a mojito, we muddle mint in a rum drink. The rum is infused by the mint. The mint is macerated.

Got it?

EAT HERE NOW – BIRMINGHAM

Tuesday, July 2nd, 2013

By LeNell Camacho Santa Ana

Alabama, Birmingham, Vulcan Park, memorial honoring iron and steel processing,

Never say never. When I left the city in 2000 for the big lights of NYC, I never thought I’d come back to find Birmingham, Alabama filled with so many food and drink options to keep even a big city girl happy. I said I would never move back to the ‘Ham but when my husband and I visited in 2011, we were so impressed by the prevalence of delicious cocktails, craft beers, and farm-fresh foods that we decided to call it home.

Steva Casey, bartender at Veranda on Highland and the Alabama Restaurant Association’s 2012 Bartender of the Year, believes that Birmingham is a burgeoning playground for cocktail enthusiasts with bar staff eager to explore new flavors much like the chefs that they work for. Asking restaurant and bar insiders for recommendations is always a great way to initiate a tasting tour. She loves to hang out at Bettola and Hot and Hot for cocktails and catch a beer at the Garage. For eats, she says don’t miss Satterfields, Pho Que Huong, Miss Myra’s, and Niki’s.

Since Ollie Irene was nominated for the James Beard’s Best New Restaurant for 2012 within a few months of opening, I asked the owners Chris Newsome and his wife Anna for their favorite haunts. They highly recommended the brunch at Veranda and the good ole country meat and three cookin’ of

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