BRAIN FOOD – Oldman’s Brave New World of Wine

by Mark Oldman
Story by Vincenza Di Maggio

There are two kinds of wine enthusiasts. There are the wine snobs, those who have perfected the ever-so-gracious swill of the wine glass (utilizing just the right amount of wrist action), are scandalized by the mere thought of putting an ice cube in their wine, and who can’t resist using words like “spoofalated,” “obsequious,” and “malolactic fermentation,” – terms that anyone not a member of the insider world of wine might confuse with a foreign language.

There are these people, and then there’s Mark Oldman – whose book Oldman’s Brave New World of Wine, winner of the 2011 Georges Duboeuf Wine Book of the Year Award, proves that this sort of wine personality is rare; and a welcome exception to the rule.

Let’s face it; the majority of our guests are not wine experts. Oldman sympathizes with those wine lovers who find themselves at a loss when it comes time to order from a wine list. He says, “How is one supposed to choose, make a $30-50 investment within 30 seconds, based on what producer name is? Sometimes I look at wine lists and shake my head. How is someone supposed to know how to order with just the basic information?”

In his book Oldman put together a list of “Brave New Pours” – unfamiliar wines that are either on the cutting-edge or worthy of rediscovery – and is clearly descriptive in his explanations of the qualities of each wine type. The book is filled to the rim with insightful findings, such as his discovery (wine snobs continue reading at your own risk) that some red wines are actually better when “shocked” or slightly chilled in an ice bucket, and his innovative deduction that rose’ wine is underappreciated or, as he so hilariously puts is, “Is misjudged as the vinous equivalent of Mariah Carey’s hemline or Donald Read the full article here »

ROCKS STARS: PROFILES IN CUBAGE – DUGGAN MCDONNELL

By David Ransom

Ask Duggan McDonnell how he ended up where he is now, and he’ll invariably launch into a sermon (quite literally) on how to take the long way to getting into the bar business. For Duggan, one of this country’s most respected bartenders, owner of Cantina – one of San Francisco’s most beloved bars, and most recently, producer of one of the hottest spirits out there these days, Peruvian Pisco (with his brand Campo de Encanto), there never had been a plan to get into the business at all. He actually (really!) wanted to be a minister.

Born in San Francisco and raised in San Jose California, Duggan was brought up in a very religious household. Originally raised Catholic, he took religion very seriously, and when his mother became born-again, Duggan went along for the ride, eventually majoring in theology at college in Seattle. “Religion is nothing if not a great story,” he says, “and for me, the story is what’s important in everything, whether it’s teaching the masses about the ways of the Lord or about the ways of the bar.”

However, it was the scholarly pursuit of writing that most captivated Duggan, and he eventually left religion behind to focus on that, receiving an MFA in creative writing from the University of San Francisco before moving back to Seattle to write “full-time.”

Of course, writing the great American novel full-time doesn’t pay much, so Duggan had to work other jobs to pay the rent while following that dream. Some of the more interesting jobs he took were as an elevator operator at Seattle’s famed Space Needle, an apartment building manager, a customer service rep at Amazon.com, and a busboy at the Scooby Doo Café.

Maybe it was his stint with Scooby, Shaggy, Daphne, Freddy, and Velma that sparked a flame, or maybe it was his job selling wine at Costco Read the full article here »

EAT HERE NOW – AUSTIN

By Hannah Fearheiley

Photo courtesy of the Austin Convention and Visitors Bureau

Keeping Austin weird is the crux of the charm this capital city possesses as it balances legislators, college students and full time residents with an eclectic vibe. It’s the kind of city where you can dress up or dress down; in most cases, people prefer dressing down in a nice scarf, boots and jeans kind of way as they dine in establishments replete with exposed brick walls, metals stools nestled at a bar, water served in Mason jars and servers expressing their own personal style. With this embracing spirit of self expression it makes perfect sense that quirky, creative, breath-of-fresh-air Austin has become town where the word trailer connotes mouthwateringly innovative cuisine instead of transitory residents and long haul truckers.

It hasn’t been a long haul since diners felt the impact of the food trailer boom in 2009, but in a few short years the Austin food scene has been changed forever. When it started the locals had no idea how big it was really going to get. Trailers got people talking not only about the diversity of cuisine being produced out of a trailer but the sheer talent of the chefs who got their start producing delicious food with integrity and very little overhead. The recently James Beard nominated chef/owner of Barley Swine (www.barleyswine.com), Bryce Gilmore, received praises over his food trailer “ The Odd Duck” and is now one of the most talked about and respected chef’s in Austin. Aaron Franklin opened his small BBQ trailer on the side of a noisy frontage road in 2009 and by 2011 had a brick and mortar store front, selling out of some of the best, okay the best, BBQ in Texas every day.

Their commonality extends further than their trailer beginnings, they also support local farmers and keeping the Austin culinary industry thriving. It’s an industry producing food worthy of a five star restaurant rating. Chefs have created eateries, both mobile and brick & mortar, where people can enjoy well executed and well thought out dishes in a very comfortable and aesthetically pleasing atmosphere.

Contigo Patio by Knox Photographics

Locals embrace this culinary boom with open arms but have not forgotten their roots- the alpha of the food scene- the simple breakfast taco. On any given Saturday morning Austinites, roused from their Rainey Street-induced slumber with growling stomachs, can be heard muttering, “Where should we get breakfast tacos?” A food staple that is the common denominator between Read the full article here »

DETOX DOWNTIME

Kusmi tea is perfect for any time of day
By Francine Cohen

The beauty of Kusmi’s Detox tea is that you don’t have to be detoxing to enjoy it.

Made from a blend of mate, green tea and lemongrass it’s very soothing and while it may not have the same “pick me up and get me going” qualities like some caffeinated teas and coffee have, it’s got something better – a bit of a respite in every bag.

Consider keeping a couple of boxes of Detox around since, as busy food & beverage professionals you put in long hours and, let’s admit it, may not eat as healthy as you should.

Having it on hands means it’s easy to reach for the Kusmi Detox tea right as you ease into your day and embrace that balance of bright refreshing notes and a soft warmth that envelopes you and helps clear your head.

And your tummy too. Relaxing in its complexity, it’s the antidote to your occupational hazards of being in the weeds and having to ingest lots of delicious food and drink before, during, and after your shift.

PPX – CHEF ALEX STRATTA

By Vincenza Di Maggio

Photo courtesy of Wynn Las Vegas

“We have an opportunity to do something really special here, and things that are special take time,” says Chef Alex Stratta as he casually raises his hot cup of coffee and motions towards his surroundings.

He’s sitting at a table inside of his latest culinary endeavor, his newly opened New York City restaurant, Bigoli — http://bigolirestaurant.com/. It’s only 2pm and the restaurant has not yet opened for dinner. It’s quiet… peaceful – well, except for the occasional sounds of clinking plates and running water emanating from the kitchen as the staff prepares for the dinner crowd. The chairs still sit on top of the wooden tables. Light floods into the dining room through the enormous skylight above, and the brick oven has just been turned on, the fire slowly warming up the room. The relaxing atmosphere suits him.

He’s right, things that are special do take time. And who would know it better than him? For over 30 years the renowned chef has worked and succeeded in developing an exciting career; the majority of which was spent working in the kitchens of Michelin two-star restaurants. Stratta’s name has become synonymous with “fine dining” and often evokes images of white tablecloths, elegantly folded napkins, mahogany coffered ceilings, crystal chandeliers, and tiny food portions. But with the opening of Bigoli, a casual neighborhood Italian restaurant located in Greenwich Village, he has decided to leave the luxurious dining experience behind. In fact, he’s stepping away from heat of the stove entirely and exploring a different aspect of the culinary industry – restaurant consulting. He says, “After 30 years of experience I’m doing something completely new which is what’s exciting about the restaurant business.”

It’s a business that’s in his blood. Stratta’s roots in the hospitality industry reach back to his great great grandfather who once owned a hotel in Piemonte, a Northern region of Italy bordering France and Switzerland. Generations later, across the Atlantic Ocean, Stratta’s father continued the family tradition by running a hotel company that required Stratta to make frequent trips from New York to Connecticut. As a fifth generation hotelier Stratta says, “I grew up surrounded by good food and good service. It became a part of who I was. I naturally gravitated towards the kitchen.”

Stratta started working his first kitchen job at the age of 15 at Manero’s Steakhouse in Greenwich, Connecticut. He slowly worked his way from dishwasher, to line cook, and 20 years later to executive chef at Mary Elaine’s restaurant at the Phoenician resort in Scottsdale, Arizona. Years later he was invited by Steve Wynn to the Wynn Las Vegas Resort where he worked as executive chef of his two namesake restaurants, Alex and Stratta. It was in the kitchen of these fine dining restaurants that he really established himself as one of Las Vegas’ most notable chefs.

Stratta, who has become somewhat of a celebrity, thinks back to the beginning of his career and recalls, “When I was a cook and becoming a chef it wasn’t such an admirable position as it is now. The biggest challenge for me is finding the balance between Read the full article here »

BRAIN FOOD – Ecole du Valrhona’s Cooking with Chocolate: Essential Recipes and Techniques

By Vicky Ruvolo Minchala

There are dozens upon dozens of chocolate technique cookbooks in this world. However, Frédéric Bau’s Cooking with Chocolate: Essential Recipes and Techniques stands tall above the competition. Although many of the recipes are straightforward enough for most amateur cooks to understand, this essentials book is clearly better suited for professionals.

Valrhona asked eight world renowned chocolatiers to break down the basics and go beyond in this one-stop-shop chocolate tome. Bau slowly introduces his reader to the world of chocolate with basic techniques such as bonbon fillings, pastry doughs, mousses, and ice creams. Then the pages swiftly change gears to discuss chocolate theory; cocoa percentages, chocolate myths, and the process from bean to bar. Before the reader realizes it, they’ve have begun to comprehend the essentials and are reading (and more importantly understanding) the more advanced recipes that follow.

Private chefs and caterers will enjoy the section on Candies and Confections since every recipe is simple, elegant, and beautifully bite sized. The chocolate caramels in this section are a wonderful starting point for any chef looking to add a signature touch to a dessert tray. Need a little more inspiration? Try making the Sesame Topped Choco-Cinnamon Ganaches; clients will think you hired a chocolatier for their event. Professional pastry chefs will enjoy the section titled Trends which explores the savory side of chocolate in recipes such as Lobster Jus under a Light Cloud of Bittersweet Chocolate or Cod Fillet with Green Tea Béarnaise and Smoked Milk Chocolate Sauce.

But wait, there’s more! For those of you who learn better by watching someone else do it first, Valrhona includes an instructional DVD. Is there anything else you could ask for in a technique book? The Ecole du Grand Chocolate Valrhona makes the essentials of chocolate both approachable and professional for any chef looking to either brush up or expand their chocolate knowledge.

Leave it to the Ecole du Grand Chocolat Valrhona to create one of the most comprehensive chocolate techniques book published to date.

Chocolate Flavored Caramel Bonbons
Makes 30-40 caramels

Ingredients:
5 ½ oz (50g) bittersweet chocolate, 70% cocoa
1 cup (250ml) whipping cream
1 pinch of salt
1 ¼ cups (9 oz/250g) granulated sugar
2 tsp. (15g) honey
1 tbs. butter, diced

Equipment:
Silcone molds/ or Confectionery frame and baking sheet

Procedure:
A day ahead:

Chop the chocolate and melt it slowly in a bain-marie or in the microwave oven (on “defrost” or at 500 W maximum, stirring from time to time).

Add the salt to the cream and heat in the microwave oven so that it is warm enough to be added to the caramel.

In a large saucepan, carmelize the sugar with the honey to make it a nice, light caramel.

Being very careful, slowly pour the hot cream over the caramel so that it does not splash.

Heat the mixture to 239 degrees F (115 degrees C) and pour it over the melted chocolate. Add the diced butter and mix it in quickly.

Pour into a confectionery frame or silicone molds and leave to harden overnight.

Next day:
Cut into small squares.

BRAIN FOOD: FRENCH CLASSICS MADE EASY By Richard Grausman

By Vincenza Di Maggio

If you’ve ever worked in a restaurant kitchen you know the stress – pots clanking, plates clattering, beads of sweat dripping down your forehead, and every swing of that kitchen door comes with another order to be cooked to perfection. The pressure is on, and you’re in the zone, but the smallest interruption – like a customer returning a dish because your line cook didn’t know how to properly fillet a fish – is enough to throw you off track.

A well-trained staff is a vital component to any kitchen running smoothly and presenting customers with a dining experience that makes them want to return. However, many of today’s generation of emerging chefs are coming to your kitchen without a degree in the culinary arts. They may have picked up some of their technique from working various kitchen jobs, but unfortunately, few can afford the resources necessary to pursue a classical culinary education and are therefore not equipped with all the cooking skills you need your kitchen staff to have.

That’s where Richard Grausman’s book, French Classics Made Easy, comes to the rescue.

Grausman, the acclaimed Cordon Bleu-trained culinary educator, author, and founder of the non-profit Careers through Culinary Arts Program (C-CAP, www.cccapinc.org), has avidly dedicated most of his career to educating disadvantaged youths in the foodservice industry. According to Jonathan Waxman, chef and owner of the NYC restaurant Barbuto (www.barbutonyc.com), “Richard Grausman is a true culinary icon. He really has no parallel, and his passion to teach is remarkable. He is the embodiment of our culinary education.”

In 1988 Grausman published his first cookbook At Home with the French Classics “as a way to document what [he] had been teaching,” he says. Grausman has now graced us all with a special gift, the re-release of his cookbook, French Classics Made Easy, which has been re-titled to reflect Read the full article here »

DON’T MISS – RUSSELL’S RESERVE

By Francine Cohen

There are bourbons that make you go, “Whoo-ee, boy! This is some damn fine bourbon. It’ll put hair on your chest!” And then there’s the kind of bourbon you’ll sip and it makes you think that despite the fact you’ve never been south of the Mason-Dixon line you’ve actually spent weekend afternoons sitting on a wide, sunny porch flanked by tall pillars, rocking back and forth and enjoying great conversation as the creek trickles softly down the hill.

Russell’s Reserve (www.wildturkeybourbon.com) is this bourbon. The bourbon that transports you from your mundane and frigid city-bound existence to something much more laid back. It’s the kind of bourbon that you could sip at 8:00 a.m. and not feel a lick of guilt about it aside from the fact that you didn’t add it to the maple syrup so your family could enjoy it too.

Russell’s Reserve is a hand-crafted bourbon born of a family business that reflects the 80-plus years of combined experience the father and son duo of Jimmy and Eddie Russell posessess. Master Distiller, Jimmy Russell has been making bourbon in Lawrenceburg, Kentucky for 56 years and has joined the ranks of the greats when it comes to his legendary craftsmanship. He collaborated with his son Eddie, a relative newcomer with 30 years under his belt, to create the acclaimed Russell’s Reserve. Jimmy Russell has worked at the distillery since 1954 and his devotion to his whiskey making comes from his family. His grandfather worked in the distilling business, as did his father before him.

Russell’s Reserve is a very special clean, rich and full bodied bourbon that’s bottled at 90 proof. Rich with notes of toffee and oak on the nose it crisply delivers the liquid with hints of sweet caramel and vanilla.

Perfect for any time of day. Or night (if you must wait).

Harvest Walnut Old Fashioned
Created by James Moreland


3 bar spoons Harvest Song Walnut Syrup
2 oz. Russell’s Reserve
3 Kingston Cubes (or 1 regular sugar cube)
Lemon peel
1 Harvest Song Walnut

Muddle lemon, cube(s), syrup
Add bourbon and stir
Add ice and stir
Slice walnut in half and place in glas
Pour in drink and garnish with lemon peel and serve with a spoon

(For more information: Kingston cubes – www.kingstoncubes.com; Harvest Song – www.harvestsongventures.com)