BRAIN FOOD: FRENCH CLASSICS MADE EASY By Richard Grausman

By Vincenza Di Maggio

If you’ve ever worked in a restaurant kitchen you know the stress – pots clanking, plates clattering, beads of sweat dripping down your forehead, and every swing of that kitchen door comes with another order to be cooked to perfection. The pressure is on, and you’re in the zone, but the smallest interruption – like a customer returning a dish because your line cook didn’t know how to properly fillet a fish – is enough to throw you off track.

A well-trained staff is a vital component to any kitchen running smoothly and presenting customers with a dining experience that makes them want to return. However, many of today’s generation of emerging chefs are coming to your kitchen without a degree in the culinary arts. They may have picked up some of their technique from working various kitchen jobs, but unfortunately, few can afford the resources necessary to pursue a classical culinary education and are therefore not equipped with all the cooking skills you need your kitchen staff to have.

That’s where Richard Grausman’s book, French Classics Made Easy, comes to the rescue.

Grausman, the acclaimed Cordon Bleu-trained culinary educator, author, and founder of the non-profit Careers through Culinary Arts Program (C-CAP, www.cccapinc.org), has avidly dedicated most of his career to educating disadvantaged youths in the foodservice industry. According to Jonathan Waxman, chef and owner of the NYC restaurant Barbuto (www.barbutonyc.com), “Richard Grausman is a true culinary icon. He really has no parallel, and his passion to teach is remarkable. He is the embodiment of our culinary education.”

In 1988 Grausman published his first cookbook At Home with the French Classics “as a way to document what [he] had been teaching,” he says. Grausman has now graced us all with a special gift, the re-release of his cookbook, French Classics Made Easy, which has been re-titled to reflect Read the full article here »

BRAIN FOOD: MILK AND COOKIES: 89 Heirloom Recipes from New York’s Milk & Cookies Bakery

By Victoria Ruvolo

As we head from Thanksgiving, our nation’s most food-centric holiday, towards Christmas and Hanukkah, the annual drive to both bake and consume large quantities of pies, cakes, cookies and candies that evoke joyful childhood memories is once again upon us. It’s this time of year, more than any it seems, that industry professionals from chefs to caterers are called upon by their clients and guest to create the warming, holiday inspired baked goods we all remember enjoying as when we were young and carefree.

Need a little help getting your recipe portfolio together this year? Milk & Cookies: 89 Heirloom Recipes from New York’s Milk & Cookies Bakery is it. Written by French Culinary Institute graduate and successful bakery owner, Tina Casaceli. Casaceli is the genius behind the now famous Greenwich Village bakery Milk & Cookies which opened in 2006.

For anyone who has never been, Milk & Cookies is the type of bakery that excels at bringing your childhood favorites spiraling back into your daily life. It’s everything you could ever want in a local cookie bakery, down to the sweet smells of vanilla, sugar, and butter wafting from the door.

Milk & Cookies the book has everything you could ever want in a cookie book. It’s filled to the brim with easy, straightforward recipes paired with beautiful photographs of mouthwatering cookies in every flavor. The recipes are simply organized by base, making it easy for any reader to find their particular favorites.

Putting pretty pictures and delicious recipes aside, most of us in the food industry have baked a plate of cookies before so why should we read Milk & Cookies? Easy; Casaceli gives her reader more than just recipes,she gives them Read the full article here »

BRAIN FOOD: LUSH LIFE, PORTRAITS FROM THE BAR SERIES 2

Lush Life, Portraits from the Bar, Series 2 by Jill Degroff
Story by Sara Gorelick

Lush Life, Portraits from the Bar, has released its second installation of the series, and saloon artist Jill Degroff has done it again; this volume is as captivating as the first.

Lush Life looks at the heart and soul of the industry; the people who make it possible. Degroff’s pages catalog stories from the bar illuminated with sketches bearing a stunning resemblance of the movers, shakers and stirrers the spirits industry has come to know and love. Though you’ve heard their names, communicated with them via email, Skype, or Facebook, and may have been fortunate at one point or another to be seated at their bar its possible you don’t know their backstory and what it took to get them there. Curious? Well, Degroff’s book is the perfect jumping off point.

The book gives you the opportunity to glimpse friends and colleagues through an artist’s eye. The sketches are expertly detailed, catching the expressions that come to mind when we think of the characters we know and love or simply admired from afar. Degroff gives you the ability to throw away any stigmas or preconceived notions about the attentive and often attractive bartender – it is no holds barred from the first story.

The tales on these pages are a reminder of the intricacies of a job which is so much more than mixing booze and slinging shots. Personal stories will cause you to reflect on your own experiences and feel the camaraderie we have all come to know and love. The purpose of the Lush Life collection is strong for Degroff, who knows that it is so important to find time to set it all aside and truly connect with the moment and the person beside you. She says, “The experience of gathering stories for the second edition drove home the lesson that the stories are getting lost now, the art of storytelling is disappearing, with everyone now leading very hectic lives, continuous multitasking and into their gadgets.”

Using no gadget more high tech than a pen or paintbrush, Degroff’s artwork is impeccable; catching features in a most observant way, exaggerating the prominent features while picking up on the slight nuances of a smile or the crease of a forehead. “She works in a three dimensional way, one for the hardest things to work in perspective,” said artist, teacher and art therapist Rosemary Kreder. “You can tell Degroff is a happy person by her drawings and you’d recognize her work. She carries forth a strong gimmick and her pictures make you feel good…this is what art is all about.”

Degroff had limited formal training, and drawing caricatures is a passion she developed after years of doodling in bars and eventually acquired the knack for nailing people. She explains, “I lived in many edgy neighborhoods with bizarre characters. My lower east side tenement featured Read the full article here »

BRAIN FOOD- THE SUMMER SHACK COOKBOOK BY JASPER WHITE

Story by Victoria Ruvolo
Photos courtesy of The Summer Shack Cookbook

As summer officially comes to a close, the longing to resurrect the essence
of the season begins to creep back into our daily lives. For those of us who
try to bring it back year-round, Jasper White’s The Summer Shack: The
Complete Guide to Summer Food
serves as our official guidebook.

We have all, at one point or another, savored the taste of deliciously fresh
shore food and loved it; whether it’s a basket of fried clams, a handful of
steamed crab claws, or a glistening lobster roll, there’s something deeply
satisfying about eating food that was probably caught, cooked, and served
within a few miles of where you’re feasting on it. White’s cookbook about
his restaurant, Summer Shack, just came out in paperback and it is devoted
to the art of seafood. In reality though, this book is much more than a
typical restaurant overview – it’s a love letter to all things fresh, local,
and pure.

White sets the tone by immediately making it clear that the recipes included
are nearly all his own personal recipes; meaning a lot of love and care went
into the book’s production. When asked for his thoughts on the publication
he replies, “I’m delighted to see the Summer Shack Cookbook released in
paperback. The lobster roll says it all – this is my Joy of Cooking for
the beach.” And when he says “Joy of Cooking”, he means it. White leaves no
fish, bivalve, or cephalopod untouched in this comprehensive yet
straightforward shore-style seafood bible. The reader is taken thru the
basics and beyond from how to gather mollusks, to shucking the perfect
oyster, to a large chart depicting various seafood steaming times. There’s
even a 101 on what the reader needs to create the “shore kitchen” atmosphere
at home. Truly nothing is missing.

Even a seasoned poissonier will find great new insider tips among the
fundamentals, as well as a plethora of pure, innovative recipes. Most of us
have grilled swordfish before but have you ever grilled fresh sardines or
fried smelts? Summer Shack makes the process effortless. Tired of the same
old mussel recipes? Try the Chilled Mussels with Curry Mayo; simply prepared
this is a dish that can easily be transformed from a canapé to a main
course. And for the private chef looking for a few versatile recipes that
work for both meat and fish lovers, there’s a lovely roasted garlic and
mustard glaze recipe; perfect for either mackerel, shrimp, OR pork chops.

White has written a glorious homage to his first love: shore-style food. Not
only does The Summer Shack Cookbook give great everyday fish tips; it’s a
wonderful source of inspiration for any chef yearning to bring their fondest
childhood culinary memories to food lovers everywhere.

BRAIN FOOD

The Sriracha Cookbook by Randy Clemens

By Clare Langan

As barbecue season approaches, ketchup, mustard and mayonnaise may have some competition. The Sriracha Cookbook by Randy Clemens elevates its namesake ingredient to star-level status.

Usually relegated a few drops over Asian fare or the occasional dorm-room cup of ramen, The Sriracha Cookbook lets the spicy-sweet flavor of this Asian chili sauce shine. Earning Bon Appetit’s ‘2010 Ingredient of the Year’ and loved by chefs and home cooks alike, Clemens offers 50 recipes featuring this Southeast-Asian condiment. Along with being a trained chef, Clemens is a clever and witty writer, serving up anecdotes with each recipe, including the origins of La Caridid, a cocktail devised on an inebriated dare.

From the zesty SriRANCHa Dressing (with a notable bacon variation) to Sriracha Kimchee and Peach-Sriracha Sorbet, the recipes are inspired and on-trend. While “In a Pinch Tips” are sprinkled throughout, the Piquant Pulled Pork is no Shoemaker effort. A spice rub, overnight brine and Sriracha-laced sauce coax pork butt into tender perfection. As if that wasn’t enough, Clemens’ “Over the Top Tip” suggests piling the pork on grilled Cheddar-Sriracha Swirl Bread and toping with Sriracha Slaw. Spice lovers, rejoice.

Clemens wrote the book after discovering Sriracha at a Vietnamese friend’s house, whose, “…mom made the most amazing fried rice on earth, and there was this bottle of hot sauce I’d never seen before sitting innocuously on the table. Nobody else was using it… nobody suggested I try it… but something about it called to me. I gave a light drizzle, and was hooked instantly.” What does Clemens think of Sriracha’s relatively recent popularity in mainstream culinaria? “It’s a staple in my kitchen, whether or not it’s a trend in someone else’s. Either way, it’s bringing somebody some combination of joy, comfort, pleasure, spice, and maybe even surprise. To me, that’s timeless.” The sauce is no trend, but here to stay.

The Sriracha Cookbook is an example of how one ingredient can change and inspire countless recipes. A mix of sound culinary advice and bar-stool banter, The Sriracha Cookbook is anything but boring.

BRAIN FOOD

THE SIMPLE ART OF EATING WELL  by Jessie Price & the Eating Well Test Kitchen

By Clare Langan


Caviar, prosciutto and Gruyère are three ingredients not typically associated with heathy cooking. The Simple Art of EatingWell by Jessie Price & the EatingWell Test Kitchen, adds these little luxuries back to the menu, proving that eating healthfully does not have to mean giving up taste.

The Simple Art of Eating Well sets out to satisfy consumer tastes which have become increasingly more refined while the demand grows for healthy, delicious food.  A compilation of 20 years of best recipes and techniques from EatingWell Magazine, sprinkled throughout are countless insider tips, step-by-step photos and ingredient guides. A resources section is like Culinary School 101 with quick reference charts, pantry lists, and an extensive glossary demystifying everything like harissa or hoisin.

The judges for the 2011 James Beard Foundation Awards were suitably impressed by the glossary and the 400 recipes with a decidedly highbrow approach as they nominated The Simple Art of Eating Well as a finalist in the category of best Healthy Focus book.  Says Price, “We put hours and hours into planning, recipe testing, tasting, editing, designing, photography. We love the way the book turned out. But it’s even better to have the James Beard Foundation recognize all that effort that went into the book.”

Contributors like Rick Bayless, Mark Bittman and Deborah Madison epitomize the EatingWell tagline “Where Good Taste Meets Good Health”. Full-flavor is a primary focus throughout the book – a key component in lighter recipes. Standard comfort food makeovers like meatloaf and brownies are an afterthought when Iberian-Style Sausage & Chicken Ragú and Roasted Pear Trifle tempt and inspire. Other standouts include a 383-calorie Spanish Pork Burger, amplified with green olives, Pimentón de la Vera, Manchego, Piquillo peppers and a pinch of saffron. With cocktail party fare like Country-Style Chicken Liver Mousse and Bourbon-Cherry Seltzer, clearly this is not your anticipated bland healthy cookbook.

One part educational guide and one part everyday resource, The Simple Art of EatingWell provides excellent inspiration for the culinary repertoire.

BRAIN FOOD

iframe>Living Loaded by Dan Dunn

By Francine Cohen

Who has the audacity, at the tender age of 40, to pen a memoir about his hard drinking days? Dan Dunn, that’s who. And why not? This booze scribe, known to Playboy readers as The Imbiber and the “conductor of my vicarious life” (as Rob McElhenney, creator and star of It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia, puts it so succinctly), has spent more nights out than anyone can count and surely most were spent drinking in the name of journalistic research. What he can remember is really funny.

And poignant. And a valuable life lesson that rings true (in a non-preachy way, though there is mention of Jesus), despite the fact you may not want to face it. When we asked Dunn what he was thinking when he penned Living Loaded he replied, “What was I thinking? Not much thinking, actually. I’m an action man.” And so, we have his latest book chronicling drinking and carousing and spirited adventures with spirits, strippers, ex-girlfriends, semi-public nakedness, family drama and good drinks, which goes on sale today.

Why do you want to read this book? Well, first and foremost, if you’re reading this column it’s quite possible you also know Dan which means there are probably nights spent with him you’d either like to forget or did forget. If it’s the latter you’ll want to check out the book to see if Dan’s trusty recorder and note pad he carries with him everywhere managed to capture the details of that fateful evening. If it’s the former then you’ll empathize with him the whole way through these hilarious 262 pages.

Maybe you don’t know Dan personally, nor do you know of his wild escapades through his Imbiber column, but you need a few good cocktail recipes. They’re in there too – some of the world’s best bartenders have conjured up new cocktails specifically created to honor the rabelesian life Dunn leads and you wish you did too. So, next time you’re looking for the right cocktail to prove you know how to drink like a man ready for any occasion, look no further than Living Loaded.

And if the book wasn’t enough of a laugh and a head shake as you wonder how someone could go through all that and write about it (potential lawsuits aside) we’ve learned that you can live vicariously for a half an hour at a time thanks to the Fox network. Dunn shares, “It hasn’t been announced yet but Fox just bought a pilot for a half-hour scripted comedy based on the book and my life. I created the show along with Rob McElhenney of ‘It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia.’ Not bad for a punk from Philly, I guess.”

Not bad indeed.

Tall Paul was the P in P&J’s – the owner, head bartender, and karmic standard-bearer of the establishment. He was a 6’7”, 250-pound behemoth renowned for his kind, humorous nature and large sledgehammer-like fists. He was a teddy bear most of the time, but woe be to troublemakers who attempted to make their trouble in his joint. Because if tempers flared and reconciliation failed, Tall Paul could kick the living s**t out of anyone this side of Superman. To me, though, he was a gentle and benevolent giant who always made sure my glass was filled with Coke and that I never ran out of change for the pinball machine. He even gave me my very own extra-tall stool so I could see over the tops of the pool and shuffleboard tables. Kept it safely stored behind the giant barrel of pretzel mix, next to the men’s bathroom. I used to live on that pretzel mix – until the day I witnessed a grubby old degenerate exit the bathroom without bothering to wash his hands…P. 172-173

And, if this wasn’t enough to whet your whistle, perhaps a little encouragement from The Most Interesting Man In The World will send you to your local bookstore to pick this up. www.youtube.com/watch?v=HtN_77hNKqw

Still not convinced? Or want it for free? The first three people to correctly answer the question below and respond to francinecohen@insidefandb.com will win an autographed copy of Living Loaded courtesy of INSIDE F&B.

At what bar did Dan spend his childhood years sitting on a tall stool and playing pinball?

***Buy the book: www.amazon.com/Living-Loaded-Salvation-Pursuit-Never-Ending/dp/0307718476/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1297192753&sr=1-1

BRAIN FOOD

Waiter Rant by Steve Dublanica

By Sara Gorelick

Anyone who has ever donned an apron or dropped a check on a table will enjoy Waiter Rant, an honest and comical look into the all guts and no glory universe that is the restaurant.

Author Steve Dublanica, aka The Waiter, takes no prisoners in his ode to this world. He says, “It was a look into a world I knew. Most people don’t know what happens behind the scenes. It’s all nice on the outside but very different on the inside, like the backstage of a play.”

All sorts of scenarios play themselves out every day in the dining room thanks to a variety of guests; from the patronizing parent to the wannabe foodie. In calling out every kind of tipper (all your favorites are in there, – the Verbal Tipper, Sugar Daddy, Former Waiter and the Whore) Dublanica leaves the reader to decide what sort of mark they themselves leave on the staff.

Waiter Rant regales with the everyday stories of working in the biz – generosity and gratuity, formidable bathroom conditions and hygiene, and even the not-so-rare account of what happens when your customer is more naughty than nice.

With tips on how to tip, advice on days to avoid eating out (i.e. New Year’s, Mother’s Day, Valentine’s Day), and how to be the perfect patron, Dublanica’s Waiter Rant is for more than those who maneuver the restaurant business daily; it is a fitting read for anyone in any industry who works to please a client and get a job done. And everyone should have that waiting experience for a year, says Dublanica, who emphasizes that it teaches so much about people.

“If you ask me, Valentine’s Day is one of the biggest scams going. Guys still paying off the baubles they bought wives and girlfriends at Christmas and Hanukkah are frightened by Madison Avenue into believing their sweethearts will transform into frigid harpies if they don’t shell out for some jewelry and round-trip tickets to an exotic island. Smelling blood in the water, restaurants replace their regular menus with “special menus” that give price gouging a good name. The foods many kitchens prepare on that holiday are often items they make only a couple of times a year. If your chef hasn’t had the practice of making the same dish day in and day out, your entrée’s, probably going to taste like rubber osso buco. If you’ve ever had a crappy meal on Saint Valentine’s Day, you know I’m right.”- Page 70, The Box of Chocolates Saint

“Somehow, as I’ve done on countless nights before, I pull my s**t together, stuff my anger and sadness into a secure mental compartment, and smile. My waiter armor will just have to make it through another night. Within half an hour my entire section is seated, cocktailed, specialed, and busy eating their appetizers. There’s a tender mercy to waiting tables. You can get so engrossed in what you are doing that you almost forget your troubles. I feel like I’m relaxing inside my brain while my body does all the work. For a few small minutes I find solace in going through the motions of a job I know how to do so well. Of course, the peace doesn’t last.” – Page 262, The Demons